How to Protect Plants against Nature Disasters

One of the greatest challenges in gardening is the constant battle with the elements. In some places it is a question of modifying the existing climate by sheltering plants from the wind, providing shade or moisture; in others it is anticipating sudden swings from one temperature extreme to another. In one part of the country or another, there seems to be a constant stream of the “coldest winter,” “driest summer,” or the “strongest wind,” all of which put plants under severe stress.
Few gardeners are lucky enough to garden in ideal conditions; the majority has to modify their gardens in an attempt to remove the worst extremes. In many cases this is possible by bringing in other plants to help.
One of plants’ enemies is the wind. It can do damage by breaking them with its force, or by causing wind-burn to the leaves. It can also cause indirect damage by drying out the soil, thus denying plants moisture, or by eroding the soil around them. Windbreaks – man-made structures or tall plantings that break the force of the wind – are the answer.
Wood fences, walls of brick and stone, or screens of plastic netting can all protect plants from wind. A barrier will protect plants standing on the leeward side for a distance up to ten times the height of the barrier.
However, if this is solid, such as a wall, severe turbulence will be created. Open fences and plastic netting are much more effective, as they allow the wind to filter through, giving the required protection on the leeward side.
While fences and netting have their place, hedges is by far the most attractive option. They may need cutting and the leaves may need clearing up, but they usually make a much more sympathetic background to a garden. Hedges have the qualities of a good windbreak: they allow the wind to filter through and have a certain amount of flexibility in high gusts. They are also “adjustable,” as they can be allowed to grow a little taller or be cut back until the best effect is achieved.
Hedges can be grown from a wide range of shrubs or trees, but it is best to avoid vigorous-growing ones. Although these will quickly get to the required height, they will not stop growing, and they will need much more subsequent attention than a slower-growing choice.
Frost is another hazard in many gardens. Tender plants can be grown up against a wall that faces the winter sun or near trees and shrubs in similar positions. Some plants need covering in winter to give them added protection, and here dead plant materials such as bracken or straw make warm mulch.
Frost will often roll down slopes, even quite small slopes, and accumulate in frost hollows at the bottom. These hollows can often be created on the side of a hill when frost, rolling down the slope, is stopped by a hedgerow. A pool of cold air forms on the upward side of the hedge, causing a pocket of frost. This air can be drained away by leaving gaps in the hedge at its lowest point. By this means the temperature of a garden can be increased by several degrees. Similarly, cold air can be diverted by the inclusion of hedges along the upper edge of the garden. These should be angled in such a way as to send any descending cold air around the garden.
Hot sunshine is another problem for many plants. Some, which prefer shade, can be kept happy in the open by keeping them moist and never letting them dry out, but the easiest way is to provide some sort of shade. Here trees and shrubs can be utilized. It is best to avoid those with shallow roots – ash (Fraxittus) or birch (Betula) for example – or those that cast too much shade – like beech (Fagus) or yew (Taxus) – as these create difficult conditions in which to establish other plants. A light, dappled shade is best. Unless the sun is directly overhead at some point in the day, it is often sufficient to place the plants alongside a shrub rather than under it.
Not much can be done with plants to alleviate the shortage of water, but they can still be a help by the way of indicators. In areas where there is rain throughout the year but at irregular intervals, possibly with drying sun or winds in between, it often happens that gardeners lose track of what moisture there is in the soil; it can be much drier than they realize. One way to solve this problem is to plant some drought indicators: plants that show at an early stage that the soil is beginning to dry out and that it is time to start applying water artificially. Hydrangea, Astilbe, and Veronica longifolia are all plants whose leaves will start drooping as soon as moisture becomes scarce. If you apply water as soon as this is seen, no losses should occur in the borders because of drought.
Drainage is a problem that must be dealt with when the garden is laid out; it is not a problem that can be solved with plants. Few plants will tolerate excess water and a few detest virtually any moisture during the winter when they are in their dormant stage. A sheet of glass or other screen placed over the latter is one solution but there are some plants such as Cistus that benefit from being planted close under trees which will remove excess water from the soil for their own needs.